How We Survived an Epic Balkan Road Trip With Balkan Campers and Mountain Bikes

There’s nothing quite like loading up a classic VW T3 campervan, grabbing two of your best friends, and hitting the road for a mountain bike adventure across the Balkans. Our journey took us through Croatia, Bosnia, Serbia, Montenegro, and Macedonia—each country unveiling jaw-dropping landscapes, rugged trails, and endless mountain views. We rode hard, camped under the stars, and met some of the friendliest locals you could hope for. This trip was all about connecting with my friends, freedom, fun, and exploring the wild heart of the Balkans one epic trail at a time.

TL;DR

If you’d rather skip our full road trip story and jump straight to a quick video recap of the road trip, here it is!

The VW T3 campervan - Grga

We’d barely hit refresh on the new BalkanCampers.com site when we spotted the first VW T3 campervan for rent—about an hour after Nejc launched it. We booked it on the spot. Little did we know that simple booking would spark a lifelong friendship with Nejc and Sara, and here we are, friends for life. Our campervan for this unforgettable journey? Grga, named after a quirky character from White Cat, Black Cat, a classic Serbian black comedy by Emir Kusturica. Grga wasn’t just any van; he was the first of the Balkan Campers fleet and filled with funky touches that we fell in love with immediately.

The team poured so much personality into Grga, and it showed in the details. For starters, they’d glued an old-school Yugoslavia map to the dashboard, giving the whole ride that retro Tito-era vibe. But my favorite touch took a few days to discover. The sun visor? It had a hidden message that popped up when you pulled it down: ‘Here comes the sun.’ It was little things like these that brought huge smiles to our faces as we rolled through the epic landscapes of the Balkans.

Now, Grga was the first camper of Nejc’s fleet, so he was understandably not prepared for a long, rugged, three-person road trip on Day One. We hit a few bumps along the way that needed fixing here and there, which turned out to be part of Grga’s charm. These stops, far from inconveniences, gave us some of our best memories. Every detour meant another chance to meet the locals, who went above and beyond to lend a hand. It was like the universe was telling us to slow down, take it easy, and savor every moment, and we absolutely did.

The roadtrip

Our road trip kicked off in Slovenia with Grga loaded up and ready for the adventure. Our first goal was to make it through Croatia and into Serbia for our first stop in Belgrade. A quick daily ride across Croatia brought us to this buzzing city, where we met up with some friends and got our first taste of Serbian hospitality. Naturally, our morning started with a shot of rakija and a Turkish coffee by Ada Ciganlija, an iconic peninsula on the Sava River known as ‘Belgrade’s Sea.’ In the summer, Ada is the heart of the city, packed with locals enjoying the beaches, sports, and relaxation. It felt like the perfect way to start our adventure.

The Serbian adventure

From Belgrade, we headed south toward the rural landscapes of Serbia, bound for the wild beauty of Tara National Park. On the way, we wound through the stunning Drina River canyon, but Grga decided to take a break mid-mountain climb. My friend Rožle noticed oil dripping from Grga—it wasn’t good. Stuck in the middle of nowhere, we called Nejc, who was cool as a cucumber. ‘Guys, crack open a beer, and help is on the way.’ So, that’s exactly what we did. We parked right there on the mountain road, cranked up some tunes, and settled in for a game of Tarok. It wasn’t long before Stepan, a local hero in an old VW Golf, arrived.

Stepan had left his brother’s wedding to help us out—talk about Serbian hospitality! He quickly figured out Grga’s problem and called a friend with a tow truck. The ride down the mountain, strapped into Grga on the back of a speeding tow truck, was an adventure in itself. When we got to Stepan’s repair shop, he was cracking jokes and keeping us entertained, even though it was already dark. Then came the good and bad news: ‘Your oil pipe’s destroyed, but I think I have a spare… from my old washing machine!’ Moments later, he returned, triumphant, with the pipe. Within an hour, Grga was back to life, and Stepan invited us to the wedding party to celebrate. One rakija led to another, and, well, the rest of the night is a bit of a blur. If you’re ever invited to a Serbian wedding, do yourself a favor and say yes!

Crossing a border into Bosnia & Herzegovina

After a day of biking through the forests and mountains of Tara National Park, we continued down to the Drina River to cross into Bosnia and Herzegovina. The border crossing was classic Balkans—either the guards are ultra-friendly or ultra-picky, and luckily for us, it was the former. The road took us through Sutjeska National Park, Bosnia’s oldest national park and home to the country’s tallest peak, Maglić. The rocky canyon and the crystal-clear Drina River felt straight out of a storybook.

Amazing Montenegro

From Sutjeska, we crossed into Montenegro along the Piva River canyon—a stretch of road that’s beyond words. The narrow, winding roads cut through hand-carved tunnels and hug the stunning blue Piva River. We took it slow, stopping to take in the views, and eventually made our way toward Durmitor National Park. The road led us to a high plateau where we set up camp at Zeleni Gaj. Here, we were surrounded by vast mountains and endless trails—perfect for biking, climbing, and soaking in Montenegro’s raw, rugged beauty.

After exploring the high plains, we made our way to Žabljak, right in the heart of Durmitor National Park. Durmitor is one of Montenegro’s true gems—and, honestly, one of the most stunning places in the Balkans.

Žabljak has everything: towering mountains, crystal-clear lakes, rivers and canyons, and the best local food you could ask for. The place was so mesmerizing that we decided to stay a few days, biking the mountain trails, hiking up scenic peaks, dipping into Black Lake, and filling up on great food with locals. Here’s a tip: the prices are almost shockingly low, so you can live like kings for very little!

From Žabljak, we descended through the legendary Tara River Canyon, heading south towards Montenegro’s Adriatic coast. The Tara River Gorge, also known as ‘The Tear of Europe,’ is the second-deepest canyon in Europe, right after the Sulak Canyon, and third globally behind the Grand Canyon.

It’s worth every bit of the hype. Right in the heart of the canyon, we took on an epic zip line ride across the Tara Canyon Bridge. With its insane height and stunning views, this zip line shot our adrenaline levels through the roof—totally recommended for anyone with a love for adventure!

The route along the Tara River is scenic yet challenging, with adrenaline-packed activities like canyoning, rafting, and rock climbing all around. This road took us south towards Lake Skadar, the largest lake in Southern Europe, straddling the Montenegro-Albania border. We wound our way through the Montenegrin side, exploring mountain villages perched above the lake. Along the way, we stumbled upon old tobacco plantations and abandoned military outposts from Tito’s Yugoslavia, a reminder of the tense history along the Yugoslav-Albanian border. It felt like stepping back in time.

From the mountains around Lake Skadar, we took a high mountain road to the Adriatic coast and landed in the charming coastal town of Petrovac na Moru. The Mediterranean coastline here is unreal, with rocky beaches, clear blue waters, and no shortage of spots to take a dip. We followed a local road along the coast, heading toward Budva and soaking up the views and beach vibes. We ended up at a small beach camp near Budva, where a couple of days slipped by in a mix of sun, sand, and late-night local concerts. We even met some Brazilian travelers who tried to teach us Samba moves—it was a blast!

Road trippin' into Croatia and driving the Adriatic coast

From Budva, we continued along the coast toward the Croatian border, making sure to stop in Kotor and take in the views over Kotor Bay. Surrounded by mountains, it’s the perfect spot for lunch and has endless hiking trails. From Kotor, we crossed into Croatia and reached Dubrovnik. There’s not much more to add about Dubrovnik that hasn’t already been said—it’s an absolute gem on the Adriatic. We spent a full day exploring the ancient city walls and lounging on its pearl-white beaches.

The road home took us up the old Adriatic coastal road through Croatia, dotted with some of the finest beaches you’ll find along the Adriatic. This route alone is an adventure, with opportunities for island hopping, diving, surfing, or just indulging in Mediterranean cuisine at every stop.

After two weeks, we finally made our way back to Slovenia, coming away with a few solid realizations:

• We need to go back to the Balkans. There’s just so much more waiting to be discovered.

• Traveling in an old-school campervan like Grga is an experience in itself. It’s a slow, immersive way to travel, connecting you to the Balkan vibe, your friends, and the locals.

• Nejc is a true legend, and Balkan Campers is as unique as the Balkans itself. The passion and creativity Nejc and Sara pour into their vans are something special.

One thing’s for sure—we ❤️ the Balkans and Balkan Campers. Can’t wait for the next adventure on the open road. See you out there!